This is how I replaced a broken rear spring on my 2003 Mercedes C Class C180K W203.
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I created and upload this as I could not find anyone showing my model of car. It's not intended as a 'step by step' - Its more of a pointer/guide.
Please check any tools, settings or advice with your own service manual. This car is a European model ( just like the owner! ).
THINK SAFETY when when working. Springs can be deadly so .."respect the spring" :-)
There are many different ways to achieve the same objective.. this was mine. Constructive comments very welcome - especially if you can offer alternative suggestions or hints/tips that may help others.
Update : when raising the control arm back up with the new spring in place you may have difficultly in getting the bolt holes to line up. I found using a long screwdriver and crow (wrecking) bar gave enough leverage to get the job done. Also, it is recommended that new bolts and nuts are used. I just cleaned the old ones with tap/die (but wire brush should be ok ) and used thread lock. I checked every day for a week, then once a week for several weeks and there was no movement in them. ( a dab of paint on the nut after torquing gave a quick way to visually check ).
Read more.......
I created and upload this as I could not find anyone showing my model of car. It's not intended as a 'step by step' - Its more of a pointer/guide.
Please check any tools, settings or advice with your own service manual. This car is a European model ( just like the owner! ).
THINK SAFETY when when working. Springs can be deadly so .."respect the spring" :-)
There are many different ways to achieve the same objective.. this was mine. Constructive comments very welcome - especially if you can offer alternative suggestions or hints/tips that may help others.
Update : when raising the control arm back up with the new spring in place you may have difficultly in getting the bolt holes to line up. I found using a long screwdriver and crow (wrecking) bar gave enough leverage to get the job done. Also, it is recommended that new bolts and nuts are used. I just cleaned the old ones with tap/die (but wire brush should be ok ) and used thread lock. I checked every day for a week, then once a week for several weeks and there was no movement in them. ( a dab of paint on the nut after torquing gave a quick way to visually check ).
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